Zandra Rhodes

Dame Zandra Lindsey Rhodes, DBE, RDI, born on 19th September 1940, is a pioneering figure in English fashion and textile design. Her innovative textile prints and bold fashion creations have secured her place as one of the most influential and enduring figures in British fashion. Over five decades, her distinctive designs have clothed royalty and rock stars, while her contributions have significantly enriched the British heritage of fashion and design.

Education and Early Career

Rhodes was born in Chatham, Kent, England, where her mother, a former fitter at the House of Worth in Paris and later a professor at Medway College of Art, greatly influenced her initial interest in fashion. Rhodes studied printed textile design at Medway College of Art, inspired by Pop artists such as Roy Lichtenstein and Andy Warhol, and textile designer Emilio Pucci. Following her graduation from the Royal College of Art in 1964 with a degree in home furnishing textile design, Rhodes embarked on a career that was destined to defy traditional fashion norms.

Her early textile fashion designs were seen as too radical by traditional British manufacturers, making it challenging for her to find work. Nevertheless, Rhodes persisted, starting a business with fashion designer Sylvia Ayton in 1968 and opening the Fulham Road Clothes Shop. This venture provided Rhodes with a platform to bring her textile designs to life through the garments designed by Ayton, launching her first collection of loose, romantic garments.

Establishing Her Identity

In 1969, Rhodes established her own studio in Paddington, West London, after parting ways with Ayton. Her unique design philosophy quickly caught the attention of Marit Allen, editor of American Vogue at the time, which led to recognition in both the British and American markets. High-end retailers such as Henri Bendel, Fortnum and Mason, Neiman Marcus, and Saks were persuaded to carry her collection.

Known for her vivacious personal style with her bright green hair, theatrical makeup, and audacious art jewellery, Rhodes stamped her identity on the international world of fashion. Her designs were daring yet graceful, audacious yet feminine, drawing inspirations from organic materials and nature. This vision resulted in handmade evening wear that incorporated her unique feminine textiles, developing a style that was distinctively "Zandra Rhodes."

The Punk Era and Beyond

In the 1970s, Rhodes and her fellow British designers helped to establish London as an international fashion hub. During the punk era, she introduced her take on punk with her "Conceptual Chic" collection, producing dresses with holes and beaded safety pins, an approach that preceded Versace's designs by a decade.

Her contributions extend beyond the runway. Rhodes designed costumes for prominent figures such as Diana, Princess of Wales, and notable rock musicians, including glam rock pioneer Marc Bolan of T. Rex, and Freddie Mercury and Brian May of Queen.

Multidisciplinary Contributions

In 1976, Rhodes diversified her work, incorporating her signature prints into interior design. She designed collections of household items, including linens, glassware, cushions, throws, and rugs. In the early 2000s, she ventured into costume design for opera productions, including the San Diego Opera's performance of Mozart's The Magic Flute and Bizet's Les pêcheurs de perles.

Rhodes' influence in the fashion industry culminated in her founding of the Fashion and Textile Museum in London in 2003. The museum, designed by architect Ricardo Legorreta, offers exhibits and educational programs for fashion students, fostering an understanding of fashion's societal impact throughout history.

Recognition and Awards

Throughout her career, Rhodes has been recognized with numerous awards, including the Daytime Emmy Award for Outstanding Individual Achievement in the Performing Arts – Costume Design in 1979, Designer of The Year in 1972, and the Walpole British Luxury Legend Award in 2019.

In 2010, she was appointed Chancellor of the University for the Creative Arts, reflecting her significant contributions to the world of art and design. Marks and Spencers also introduced an upmarket Zandra Rhodes collection in their bigger stores by late 2009.

Personal Life

Rhodes' long-standing partner was former president of Warner Brothers, Salah Hassanein, whom she often describes as the greatest love of her life. Despite some personal troubles, including an arrest for growing cannabis in 1986 and a car crash in 2009, Rhodes remains an influential and respected figure in the world of fashion.

The vibrant legacy of Zandra Rhodes is a testament to her pioneering vision and indomitable spirit. Her dedication to pushing the boundaries of textile and fashion design has shaped the industry and left an indelible mark on British heritage, earning her a prestigious place in the annals of British fashion history.