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Katharine Hamnett

Katharine Hamnett - britishheritage.org

The Fashion Rebel Shaping British Heritage.

Katharine E. Hamnett CBE, born on 16 August 1947, stands as a towering figure in the fashion industry, not just for her influential designs, but for her outspoken political activism. Hamnett has leveraged her prominence in the fashion world to become a powerful voice for change, making substantial contributions to British heritage along the way.

Early Years and Introduction to Fashion

Born in Gravesend, Kent, Katharine Hamnett's early life was as serene as any, the daughter of group captain James Appleton. Her journey to the epicentre of the fashion world began with her education at Cheltenham Ladies’ College, leading her to graduate from the prestigious Saint Martin's School of Art. This laid the foundation for her career, which she initiated by setting up Tuttabankem with Anne Buck in 1969.

Over the years, Hamnett honed her skills, working as a freelance fashion designer across global fashion capitals like London, Paris, Milan, New York, and Hong Kong. Her rich experiences culminated in the founding of the Katharine E. Hamnett clothes label in 1979, marking a pivotal moment in her career and British fashion.

Breakthrough and Influence

Hamnett's distinctive mark on the fashion industry was created by her oversized T-shirts with large block letter slogans, launched in 1983. These weren't merely fashion statements, they were political statements, fearlessly emblazoned across the wearer's chest.

This innovative approach to blending fashion with messaging was enthusiastically adopted by pop bands such as Wham! and celebrities like George Michael, who famously wore the "CHOOSE LIFE" shirt in the music video for "Wake Me Up Before You Go-Go". His appearance and others like it, including Roger Taylor of Queen wearing "WORLDWIDE NUCLEAR BAN NOW" during their performance at the inaugural Rock in Rio festival, catapulted Hamnett's designs into the global consciousness.

Her influence did not stop there. In 1984, ZTT's Paul Morley was so inspired by Hamnett's work that he designed a series of "FRANKIE SAY..." T-shirts for the chart act Frankie Goes to Hollywood (FGTH), openly acknowledging the debt to Hamnett's original concept.

Advocacy Through Fashion

In the heart of this fashion revolution was Hamnett's commitment to using her platform to amplify her political beliefs. She turned her clothing into conversation starters, each item bearing bold messages like "USE A CONDOM", "PEACE", and "CHOOSE LIFE". The latter was not an anti-abortion slogan as it might have been misconstrued, but rather a comment against war, death, and destruction, inspired by a Buddhist exhibit.

In addition to her own label, Hamnett has used her design skills to support charitable causes, creating a t-shirt reading "CHOOSE LOVE" in 2015 for the charity Help Refugees, now known as Choose Love.

Champion for Ethical Fashion

In the late '80s, Hamnett's attention was drawn to the ethical concerns surrounding the fashion industry. Disheartened by the use of pesticide poisoning and sweatshop labour in cotton-growing and textile industries, she initiated a crusade for change. Despite initial setbacks, Hamnett remained steadfast, relaunching her line in 2005 under stricter ethical guidelines, advocating for better manufacturing and agricultural practices.

Her activism wasn't limited to the industry she was part of. She famously met with then-Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher wearing a t-shirt with the slogan "58% DON'T WANT PERSHING", referring to the UK's public opposition against the basing of Pershing missiles in the country.

Her political activism continued well into the 21st century, with protests against the 2003 Iraq war and a stand against what she perceived as racism in the London Fashion Week of 2008. In 2013, she designed t-shirts for the Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament, further demonstrating her commitment to the anti-nuclear cause.

Recognitions and Legacy

Hamnett's exceptional contributions to fashion and her undying spirit of activism have not gone unnoticed. She won the first-ever British Fashion Awards, was voted Britain's favourite designer by Cosmopolitan readers in 1996, and was appointed Commander of the Order of the British Empire (CBE) in 2011, for her services to the fashion industry.

Katharine Hamnett's impact on British heritage extends beyond her influential designs and extends into her activism. She reshaped the conversation around what fashion can be, and more importantly, what it can do. By using her platform to promote social, ethical, and political changes, she has indeed become an emblem of British heritage, representing a blend of creativity, courage, and commitment to change.

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The BritishHeritage.org seeks to recognize individuals who have attained excellence and international renown in their chosen professional fields, and whose actions, in addition to their achievements, embody the character of the British people through commitment to British values, the British community and/or to Great Britain. Beyond demonstrated qualities of achievement and commitment, the BritishHeritage.org serves to recognize the British Heritage contribution to the betterment of mankind.

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